Monday, October 29, 2012

My next stop of Inca ruins was Moray.

This unique archaeological site is one of the best examples—along with Machu Picchu—of what might be called extreme Inca landscaping. Three enormous pits, each with beautifully curved sides that staircase down like the interiors of titanic flowerpots, have been carved out of the earth to depths of up to 100 feet and more. Air temperatures between the top and bottom layers can differ by more than 20 degrees, which has led some researchers to theorize that Moray was an Inca agricultural site where experiments on crops were conducted.



My driver Cecelio and me

Inca Stone Architecture: History


The fortress-temple of Ollantaytambo is famous for its beautifully fitted great slabs of red porphyry forming a portion of what must have been intended to be its principal temple. But this complex, a work in progress when the conquistadores arrived, was never finished. A number of large cut blocks were abandoned en route to the site and remain today, known as piedras cansadas or "tired stones". Within the complex, a stone that was in the process of being maneuvered into its final position can be seen lying on its emplacement ramp. Other stones exhibit peculiar grooves which were meant to be filled with molten bronze or copper to lock two adjacent stones together (as was done by the Greeks in their temple construction, and also by the people of Tiwanaku near Lake Titikaka).

How the Inka cut stone without iron tools is not known with any certainty, but in all likelihood stone was cut and shaped mainly with stone tools. Bronze or copper tools may also have been used, but would be of limited use with the hard varieties of igneous rock commonly used by the Inka. In Cusco can be seen an interesting stone that was evidently abandoned while being cut in two; the row of narrow holes forming the line along which it was to be split seem to bespeak the use of a metal tool. Probably this stone represents post-conquest work for the Spaniards. The conquistadores admired Inka stonework sufficiently to employ Inka stonecutters and techniques in colonial buildings, and many of the "ancient Inka" walls in Cusco belong to the colonial period, such as this wall with carved snakes and stones in non-Incaic shapes.

Scribing and coping:

In 1987, architect Vincent R. Lee proposed that the Inkas used a technique known as scribing and coping to fit their wonderful jigsaw-puzzle stones. This technique is used to shape dove-tail joins of logs at the corners of log cabins, resulting in logs carefully fitted together with little or no gap between the cut log faces. A related technique could have been used by the Inkas to shape their stones.
If the Inkas employed the scribing and coping method, the process might have been something like this. To keep the illustration simple, we'll start with a simple rectangular wall block that is to be set in a notch or seat carved in the underlying wall stones or bedrock. A good example of rectangular blocks set in bedrock notches can be seen in this foundation wall at Pisac. Our rectangular block has a bottom, top, and two ends that must be fitted to their bedrock seat and the neighboring stones in the wall. The front and back sides do not have to be shaped for any particular fit. First the bottom and two ends are cut to a rectangular shape. Next the seat and faces in the underlying stones must be cut to fit this block. To do this, the block must be suspended above the stone on which it is to be seated. For very heavy stones, this is not a trivial problem, but perhaps the stone could be propped up by logs leaning in diagonally from the front and back sides. Now, the cut outline of the suspended block is traced with a scribing device

That the scribing and coping technique is a practical solution to the mystery of the Inka stoneshaping methods was demonstrated by modern stonecutters under the direction of Vincent Lee in the 1995 NOVA program "Inca". Whether or not it was the technique used by the Inka may never be known, but no other practical solution to the problem has been discovered.
 closely fitted only to depths of a few centimeters from the outer face, with any leftover space between the rest of the vertical joins being filled with sediment.

Inka walls:

What the Inkas must have considered their very finest stonework is found, naturally, in their most important buildings, their temples. Temple walls are battered (inwards sloping), and constructed of finely hewn ashlars laid in courses that get progressively thinner upwards. This creates a wall with a wonderfully stable and pleasing appearance, and which is, in fact, highly resistant to seismic shaking. Earthquakes are a common building hazard in the Andean region, and Inka stonework has survived for centuries, even as Spanish colonial structures have collapsed. In fact, the most durable Spanish constructions have been those that incorporated Inka walls. Here original Inka walls have been breached by Spanish colonial doorways; note the inward slope of the lower wall, as opposed to the vertical upper wall of European construction.
The inside face of these sloping walls is normally plumb, as seen here in the fine stonework inside the Coricancha, the Inka "holy of holies" in Cusco. Thus the walls were thicker at the base, where the more massive courses were laid, and somewhat thinner higher up where the courses were smaller..

Of course, not all Inka buildings were built of fine stonework. Buildings of lesser importance might be constructed of rough stones set in mud, in a style known as pirca.

Ollantaytambo II

The long walk up and the river that supplied the Incas



The Temple of Water

Ollantaytambo: The architecture



Notice no mortar and how they used a jigsaw pattern.


Ollantaytambo


The Temple of the Sun


The long walk

The Temple of the Moon

My guide Renee and Me

I Enter the Sacred Valley

Yep unlike the Incas who walk, I hired a professional driver (cab) to take me to three important Inca sites in the Sacred Valley: Ollantaytambo; Moray; Chinchero.

I figured it to be a tiring day with lots of climbing and walking. I made my first visit to Ollantaytambo a magnificant fortress and ceremonial site where the Inca's put a hurting on the Spanish. One of the few battles they one.

My driver Cellio took about an hour and a half to arrive. As soon as we arrived, a guide approached me for an hour tour. He was a young man with as bad English as I was in Spanish skills. We settled on a price of 40 solas the equivalent of about 12 bucks.

I saw the climb and wondered how I would make it with the altitude issue affecting me.
I did not come all this way to wuss out now. I figured, I would just go more turtle slow that I usually do. The good thing is Incas build on terraces. This was so they could plant different crops at different altitudes and temperatures. These terraces provided a welcome place to pull away from the steep stone stair climb and relax a bit. My guide about 23 years old looked out for me and made sure I was well rested. He gave me the feeling that I was old and not in shape but that it is normal for tourist not use to the altitudes to rest more. He continued his lectures while we rested and pointed out various structures and facts.
I did finally make it to the top. We stopped into the temple of the moon, looked and the wonderful architecture of stone building without mortar or cement. I have included and number of photos showing how the stones were hand cut to groove in place with the surrounding stones. On the top, we the most famous temple, The Temple of the Sun

Cusco: The Sacred City : History

Cusco - The Sacred City
Located in the southeastern part of the Andes, Cusco is Peru's main tourist destination and one of the most important in the Americas. Known by the Incas as the "home of gods", Cusco became the capital of one of the largest pre-Columbian empires: the Tawantinsuyo. Its name in Quenchua, Qosqo means "Navel of the World". which derives from when the city served as a hub for when the Inca would travel the vast network of roads interconnecting virtually the whole of South America, from the southern part of present-day Colombia to the northern part of what is now Argentina.

Furthermore, Cusco is also both a mestizo and colonial city, with splendid churches and manors built on foundations of elaborately carved stone. The local cuisine is also something for the traveler to look forward to, including superb combinations of typical Andean foods, such as corn, potatoes and chili pepper, with pork and mutton introduced by the Spanish. With its vast landscapes, rich history and fascinating geography, Cusco is, without a doubt, something all travelers long to experience.

Legend and History

Although it was settled centuries before the Incas arrived, it was only during the period of Inca control (1438-1532) that the Huatanay River basin, upon which Cusco is built, reached its peak as an administrative, religious and military center. The origins of the city are shrouded in myth and legends, which tell the tale of how the Inca Empire came to being.

One of the most popular myths, from the chronicles kept by the Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, is that of a mythical couple, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, who emerged from the waters of Lake Titicaca to found the city of Cusco and teach its people how to cultivate the land. The city was divided into two sectors: an upper area, or Hanan, and a lower-lying area, or Hurin, references to both the geographical position of each area and the hierarchical position of their inhabitants. Moreover, it is also said that the outline of the first city had the shape of a puma with a falcon's head.

When the Spaniards arrived in 1533, many pre-Hispanic structures were destroyed or used as foundations for new structures, which included churches, convents and mansions built in Baroque or Renaissance styles. Since then, Cusco has become one of the most representative expressions of mestizo culture anywhere in the Americas.

All roads end at Paddy's Pub

Or they should....On a track that leads around the bar and entire room carries an electric train going over head.




Fiesta to a relaxing evening..

After, watching some videos on Netflix, making calls and taking a rest, I decided to eat and drink out. I walk to my favorite bar Paddy's. Along the way, there was a major religious fiesta taking place with people in colorful costume, dancing and waving flags. On the stone steps of the church people gather to enjoy the fiesta which ended in a night of fireworks.




A relaxing day...

Today, I just wanted to hang around Cusco and the hotel. I was tired. I headed for my morning espresso and stopped by the Compania de Jesus the other Cathedral on the Square.

Near Cusco Cathedral is the Church of the Society of Jesus (Iglesia La Compañía de Jesús) which rivals the cathedral in grandeur and prominence on the main square (an intentional move by the Jesuits, which did not go over too well).

History

Originally begun in the late 16th century, the church was almost entirely demolished by the earthquake of 1650, rebuilt, and finally finished 18 years later.
Like the cathedral, La Compañía was also built on the site of an important ancient palace, that of the Inca Huayna Cápac (said to be the most beautiful of all the Inca rulers' palaces)
La Compañía de Jesús is said to be one of the best examples of colonial Baroque architecture in the Americas. Inside, it's rather gloomy, but the gilded altar is stunning, especially when illuminated. The golden altarpiece, decorated with wreathed columns, features an old image of the Virgin and a panel of the Transfiguration attributed to the Flemish Jesuit Diego de la Puente.
La Compañía possesses several other important works of art, including a picture of Saint Ignatius de Loyola by the local painter Marcos Zapata, and a Crucifixion by Cristo de Burgos near the main altar.
Also of note are the paintings to either side of the entrance, which depict the marriages of Saint Ignatius's nephews. One of these especially exemplifies Peru's mestizo character, depicting the granddaughter of Manco Inca marrying the man who captured the last Incan leader, Tupac Amaru.